Epic Days 

Unknown Charger 

"As big as it gets?", Nov. 16, 2005 (date on photo, not sure if it's accurate)    

One of my favorite pictures at Pipe of an unknown charger. Or perhaps he is known but so small in the picture that no-one can identify him. And ironically, most the guys out on the biggest days at Pipe are unknowns. My experience at Pipe was with unknown chargers like these. When it is this big, it doesn’t always barrel like it does on the first reef but when it does barrel, it doesn’t get better than that. My husband shot this photo from land but it is tight on the surfer that when I first saw it I said, wow, I remember that wave because I was sitting right there looking at this surfer as if I was the one taking this shot. That was kind of a freak wave that day and I didn’t remember it being quite that big but that’s probably because part of what we are doing out there is denying that it is that big in order to stay out there. But this really captures what its like to be out on a big day at Pipe that is really clean and organized. You can sit right next to waves like these without getting caught so long as you are paying close attention to the way the water is moving. It was days like this that I never caught a wave but had the best session of my life. Just feeling that kind of energy right next to me was surreal.

If you flip the wave horizontal, it looks like he is riding big Waimea. I surfed Waimea for a while and one day the swell was dropping so I came in from the Bay and went to Pipe only to find that I had missed a small window of a Pipe session like this one because the wind turned onshore and that was kind of the end of my time at the Bay on west swells because I knew not to give up on Pipe. But when I say I have surfed Pipe as big as it gets, I mean that I paddled out like this and maybe even a little bigger. Its hard to tell if this is a second or third reefer but usually the third reefers are a little bit bigger but so far out that they cannot be photographed from the beach because there is usually a wave in front of the one the guy is riding and it prevents the photographer from being able to get the shot.

p 

BLOG ENTRY

Title description, April 2, 2014

Mauris neque quam, fermentum ut nisl vitae, convallis maximus nisl. Sed mattis nunc id lorem euismod placerat. Vivamus porttitor magna enim, ac accumsan tortor cursus at. Phasellus sed ultricies mi non congue ullam corper. Praesent tincidunt sed tellus ut rutrum. Sed vitae justo condimentum, porta lectus vitae, ultricies congue gravida diam non fringilla.